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Tuesday 26 July 2011

Hot and sweaty Xi’an (July 23-26)


After the not so bad 15-hour bus ride, I arrived in Xi’an…well kind of. The bus pulled over at the side of a motorway and the driver came up and told me this was my stop. So I took as his word as he knew better then I did, gathered my gear and got off along with about 10 other people. My first thought, where the f**k am I and where is the main city. I was literally on the side of a motorway with the nothing around except a closed petrol station. I waited for bout 10 minutes hoping a taxi would turn up. None did. So I decided to start walking in the same direction as the others who got off my bus, and felt like I was walking on a road to nowhere. I started worrying, not sure how I would get to my hostel. It was about 530am and already muggy as hell. So what did I do, probably something I shouldn’t of, but I was desperate.

A small white van pulled up next to me, and I noticed the girl who was in the bed next to mine was in the front seat, and an older lady around 50 in the drivers seat and they started talking to me in Chinese, which obviously I had no idea what they were saying. After gesturing and trying sign language, showing them my address, we were getting nowhere, and the only thing I could gather was they were saying get in. Half was saying you’re an idiot, the other half was saying it two Chinese women, how much trouble can you really get into. We drove for a while and through very desolate areas and I was at times thinking that I had made the wrong choice. 20 minutes or so go past and I saw nothing that looked remotely like a town, and then out of nowhere, main roads! Relief flooded my body. The lady pulled over, got me a cab and gave the driver the address and I was off (after paying her the equivalent of 50p) and finally I arrive at the hostel. Check in and they let me into the room straight away where I was able to sleep for a good few hours.

So day one wasn’t overly productive. I just cruised around town and familiarised myself with Xi’an, which is like a smaller Beijing. I walked down to the city walls (Xi’an city walls are the most complete ones that have survived in China, as well being one of the largest ancient military defensive systems in the world) and the south gate into the city, checked out some really cool traditional Chinese street markets, ate some street meat, checked out the Muslim Quarter which was really interesting too and then retired to bed after a few beers and some pool.

Day two, the Terracotta Warriors, my main reason for heading to Xi’an. They were only discovered in 1974 when a farmer was digging for water and at a depth of only 1.5m, he found a head of one of the warriors. And since then until now, they are still uncovering more and more tombs filled with warriors. At present they have three open to the public, and a fourth one that has recently been found.
We started at number three, and wasn’t too exciting as this site is still being worked on and pieces of warriors are getting found every day and eventually, they will all be found and put together.
Number two, little more exciting with a few complete warriors and horses as well as a lot more pieces. And then number one, amazing! Over 2000 complete warriors stand in the pit, all in line, and no two are the same. Was pretty amazing! The emperor constructed the army to protect him (although I still don’t know how he thought a bunch of statues would do that) but then again he did die from eating too much mercury. So Terracotta Warriors, really really cool!

That night I met up with a few people I met on the tour and we had a few quiet beers, that turned into a 330am finish, but was a fun but chilled night. So that meant the next day I slept in a lot, which was actually pretty nice. Although in the afternoon I did go for a ride with Ky, an English fella I met on the tour, and we rode around the city wall, which was pretty cool, and not too hot considering it was high 30’s at lunchtime.
That night we all decided to go out for dinner to the Muslim Quarter and it was unreal. Between the four of us we had three fish, 20 lamb kebabs, two plates of vegetables, a bowl of weird stuff, two bowls of soup and 6 big bottles of beers and two bottles of water and it cost us £4.50 each for everything! And it was all amazing food! Then we wandered the streets of the quarter looking at all the interesting things on offer there, retired to a bar and chilled over a few beers.

I had to stay in Xi’an a day extra then I wanted due to no trains, but tonight I get a 15 hour train to Chengdu which is further south again. Activities for down there include going to see the pandas, horse trekking in Songpan, going to Leshan and Emei and then who knows what else? Will wait and see.

Gate into the market

Local trinkets

Start of the Muslim Quarter

Terracotta Warriors

Terracotta Warriors

Terracotta Warriors

Terracotta Warriors

Terracotta Warriors

Terracotta Warriors

Xi'an City Wall

Smog

Our fish at the Muslim Quarter

Prawns at the Muslim Quarter

Feet at Muslim Quarter

Dried fruits at Muslim Quarter

Caramel blown animals

Muslim Quarter

Xi'an Bell Tower

Beers with the Brits and Italians

Enroute to Xi’an (July 22)


Not a long post here but one I thought posting a photo of. After getting taken on a joy ride around the city by my cabbie who I am sure just wanted a bigger fare (which was still only £3.50 for about 30 minutes) but I was already running late and fretting I was going to miss my bus. I arrived at the bus station about 30 minues before my bus but was told you need to be there an hour before which wasn’t true luckily. And still not knowing what kind of bus I would be on, expecting a crappy bus like the one we got to The Great Wall which would be hell. I was amazed when I stepped onto the bus and saw everyone has a little bed! It’s amazing! This 15 hour trip isn’t going to be too bad at all, catch up on some sleep! 

Sleeper bus

A whole new world…Beijing (July 18-22)


From the beautiful streets and clean air of Russia, to the humid heat and smoggy skies of China, it was like entering a whole new world. I arrived late at night and as soon as I stepped foot outside I was hit with a whole new level of humidity. 1130pm and temperature would still have been in the high 20’s, although if I didn’t have a watch, I could’ve easily thought it was a lot earlier then that, as the city lights reflecting off the hazy smog of Beijing illuminated the sky like it was early afternoon.

Easily enough I located a cab, gave him the address and we were on the way. Hitting speeds in excess of 120km/h and swerving in and out of traffic like Colin Mackray, I wasn’t actually sure if I was going to make it there in one piece, but the taxi ride was the least of my worries.
We arrived at my street and it was dark, unlit and looked like a Chinese ghetto, so of course I got out of the cab and wandering in hoping eventually I would be greeted with my hostel, but no. I walked through the street and made it through safe, although one chicken was stalking me, and I came to a fork in the road, hooked a right and hoped for the best. Walked down and saw the HI Hostel light and relief flooded my body. Happy and relieved I go in and check in, except I wasn’t actually booked at this hostel. I rummaged through my paperwork and found my reservation, and of course they were right, I didn’t have a reservation there and in fact my hostel was just up the road another 100m. So up I go to my hostel, am greeted by super friendly staff (even though its about 1am now) taken to my room and shown my bed. So I dumped my bag and went and had a beer in the bar, felt like I deserved it.

Day two and ready to explore Beijing. My first  idea was head to the camera market and check out some new camera lenses. I did my research, jotted it on a map and got on the subway. Getting to the station proved no problem, but finding the camera market was not so easy, I walk in one direction for about 25 minutes which I was sure was the right way, but couldn’t find the market. So backtracked and tried the other way, not there either, so hour or so wasted and I was back to where I started. So went back to hostel, checked again and was actually about 200m from where I walked the first time. So I repeated the process and walked another 200m and found the market. Hundreds of camera shops, hundreds of lenses, camera, tripods, bags and everything camera related, I was overwhelmed. Had a look around, jotted some models down to do some background research on them (as no one spoke a word of English so asking about the lens was out of the question) and decided to leave before I bought something that I probably didn’t need.

It was only about 3pm by the time I was finished and I knew Beijing had a lot to do so I decided to leave the research till later tonight and I stayed out and explored and went to the Silk Markets which was insane. Busy, colourful and just epic! Everything form rip off clothing and sunglasses, bags and wallets, pearls, souvenirs, junk and food. It was fun just wandering around looking at how amazingly close the knock offs are to the real thing. I only brought some sungless, a near perfect pair of rip off Ray Bans for about £3, which I have already lost. The night I just chilled in the bar, learnt how to make dumplings and met a cool American guy, Christian, I had a few beers with.

The next day was tourist day and Christian joined me. We headed off first to Summer Palace, which was just insane. It was like a paradise escape in the heart of a bustling city. The area itself if huge with a giant lake in the middle, loads of amazing buildings and just a beautiful place. Probably the highlight of Beijing.

Next on the list was The Forbidden City, for almost five hundred years, it served as the home of emperors and their households, as well as the ceremonial and political center of Chinese government. The city was huge (720,000 m2) and just seemed to keep going. It was only opened to the public in 1925 and the thousands of years before that, if a 'commoner' tried to walk the grounds of the city without the Emperor's permission, they were killed, a slow and painful death. Bit over the top I thought. Not as nice as Summer Palace but it was still amazing and to think how many years ago it was built, it truly was mind-boggling! Something else that was mind-boggling about The Forbidden City was the amount of tourists, and 95% were Chinese. I have never seen so many people in one area. It was bedlam! And I got my first taste of Chinese paparazzi, with several people taking photos of me. Two school girls came up to me and asked if they could have their photos with me, which was weird but I got in there and threw the peace sign up with them and it seemed to make their day. She also asked if she could touch my hair which was odd, but then again a lot of things in China are odd.

Directly across the road was Tiananmen Square which was cool but to me it was just a big square with some cool little gardens in there and loads of tourists.  When they do the marches and celebrations there I think it would be amazing though.

That night was mellow, had a few beers and went and ate some amazing duck, then retired to bed, ready for a big day at the Great Wall of China the next day.

730am start was not good. I hadn’t slept in till after 8 for a long time, so each day was getting harder and harder. The bus to the wall was about an hour and a half, and was not the most comfortable of buses, but we made it there. Except there was one scare along the way when the bus just stopped and wouldn’t start again for five minutes, and everyone was thinking the same thing…shit. But it started again and eventually we were there.

A chairlift took us up to the top and placed us right onto the wall, and it was unreal. I have seen it in pictures and on tv, but seeing it in real life was just next level. It was like a snake that just winded through the mountains as far as the eye could see. I don’t know how to explain it in words, but it was just mind blowing and to think how many years ago this was made, and how long it took to make, and that it was made in the days before cranes, machines and trucks. The section we went to had 23 watch towers, some which you could climb for even higher views of the walls, and 3kms one way and 1km the other way off accessible wall to explore. The 1km section was like climbing a mountain, it was so steep and some of the steps were about 2ft high, but once at the top of that it was pretty cool (although by the time I got to the top I was drenched in sweat) The other 3km had loads more watch towers and at the end towers, provided a pretty amazing view of the wall. Only downside of the day was it was really hazy and the photos didn’t turn out too good. Oh and also the way down wasn’t the chairlift, but a bobsled track which was amazing, except the Chinese are as bad on a bobsled as they are on the road. (Sorry to any of my Asian friends)

I met a group of Irish travellers on the wall trip and that night we decided to check out the Dong Hua Men Night markets which are known for selling all kinds of weird food, especially insects. Scorpions, spiders, roaches, grasshoppers’ just to name a few, and other odd meats such as snake, shark and some sort of very small dinosaur looking bird. We strolled through the markets seeing what we could possible stomach, so we went for some shark and some snake. Both were really easy to keep down, one tasted like fish fingers and the other just like a tough piece of meat. So we stepped it up a bit and got some seahorse, which we felt bad for doing as sea horse are so cute, but we ate them anyways. Then next one the menu we thought need to get something a bit more extreme, so we picked a skewer of scorpions and thought ok we’ll get these and that’ll be it. We picked our skewer (one that we made sure they were dead as half of them were still moving on the skewers) and the guy fried it up and we munched in, and it was actually ok, just tasted like a piece of little pork crackle. So we ticked a few of the weird foods of the to do list.

Next destination, Xi’an for a couple of days, a 15 hour bus ride away…lets see how that goes!

Things learnt in Beijing
• They eat weird foods
• Chinese people believe that if they want to cool down, they don’t need to take their shirts off, they 
  just expose their stomach and as long as their stomach and their head are exposed then they will 
  cool down.
• They spit everywhere and its accepted and normal
• They love getting photos with people with blonde hair, really white skin or attractive olive 
  skinned girls.
• The Great Wall is truly amazing
• Street meat is a tasty treat

View from plane to China, somewhere in
the middle of Russia

Just having a nap

Summer Palace

Painted roof in Summer Palace

Summer Palace

Summer Palace

Me at Summer Palace

Me and Christian at the Garden of Harmonious Interest in Summer Palace

Summer Palace

Me and Christian inside the Forbidden City

Pea flavoured ice cream...was not good

Forbidden City

The Great Wall of China

The Great Wall of China

The Great Wall of China

The Great Wall of China

Donkey

Scorpions at Dong Hua Men Night Market

Dong Hua Men Night Market

Interesting eats at Dong Hua Men Night Market

Eating a seahorse at Dong Hua Men Night Market 

Me and Simon about to eat scorpions

Our tasty duck

The Garden of Harmonious Interest in Summer Palace

Sunday 24 July 2011

From Russia with love...Moscow (July 15-18)


St Petersburg surprised me, so I wasn’t sure what to expect from Moscow. Was it going to be the same as St Petersburg, or was I in for a completely different kind of city?

We left St Petersburg which we had all fallen in love with and boarded our overnight train to Moscow. We had a little trouble when buying our tickets, but again we had a visit from a travel fairy and she saved the day and us make our purchase. So we had our tickets, found our big, soviet looking train, located our carriage and got on board. We all had small beds that were not long enough to lay to full extent, it was 28 degrees with no air conditioning or windows and we were the only foreigners on the train. Sounds bad? Well to be fair once we got going it wasn’t to bad, had an amazing sunset out the windows (at about 1230am) and then slept and woke up in Moscow.

Arrival in Moscow and we were all wondering what is it going to be like. Wishing for something like St Petersburg but at the same time hoping for a new city for adventures. Upon exiting the train station we were greeted with the city that is Moscow. Big, loud, grey and intimidating, not quite the same as St Petersburg. So we got a cab, paid way too much but we got to our hostel safe and sound.

Over the days we were here, we literally did the same thing, walk for hours, look at amazing sites and take in the city. Although it wasn’t the same as St Petersburg, it was still just as fun.

We saw Cathedral of Christ the Saviour and it was stunning, ventured to a park that was home to a bunch of old, abandoned carnival rides, wandered through random streets, saw the Kremlin, Red Square and St Basil’s Cathedral which were all just as amazing as the pictures in books, and rode the extremely confusing metro. Also we were lucky enough to get into Lennin’s tomb and see his body, which was creepy, but cool. And nearly forgot we also went to Izmaylovo Market, which are the biggest open air markets in Europe. They sold everything there, Russian matryoshka/babushk dolls, fur hats, wolf skin (complete with head and feet), old postcards and money, army helmets, soviet style cameras, war memorabilia and every kind of tourist trinket ever made. Then a separate section of the market was a giant flea market and the crap people were selling was mind-boggling. I don’t know how they think that someone might want to buy their old handkerchief or placemat, but they do and they literally will try to sell anything. But what they lack for in their products, they make up for with their character. Some friendly, smiling and posing for the camera, while others have faces that tell a story of a hard life and hide at first sign of a camera. The markets we definitely worth the visit!

Although the city itself may not of been as pretty as St Petersburg, it still had its charms, beautiful attractions and Red Square is amazing (especially at 2am when there is no one there!).  

After abusing my body (and bank balance) for majority of my trip so far, I decided Moscow was going to be a bit quieter and I would only go out once, so I avoided heading out until Saturday night, which we had planned to be a decent night out, and that it was. The night kicked off at a bar near our hostel where we got 3.3l tubes of beer and got to work on them, as well a sheesha (which the guy asked if we wanted anything special in there to make us feel funny and dizzy, but for our safety we declined). The crew started with 5, and soon became 10, with a decent mix of nationalities; Australian, Danish, Irish, German, Brazilian and French. The night was going fast and before we knew it, it was midnight and we had heard that getting into clubs after midnight could be a problem, but we thought give it a try and see what happens. Luckily we got there and had no problem getting in, as well as the midnight lock outs they also have ‘face control’ which literally means if they don’t like the look of you or how you are dressed then you wont get in. 

We enter Propaganda to be greeted with loud music, crazy lights and hundred of people partying. The night was a typical night of dancing, drinking etc but the one highlight for me was waiting at the bar with Tom (Danish guy) and a big, bald Russian coming up and putting me under his arm around me and telling me we must have a drink together. So me, Tom, Divok (not sure if that was his name but its what it sounded like) and two of his girlfriends lined up some vodka, threw them back and got our beers and were about to leave. Then he was like 'no you can’t leave, not yet' and we thought sh*t, have we got ourselves into a situation now, is this guy a pimp and now he wants us to take his girls, or is he going to rack up a massive bill and then leave it with us? Luckily our quick panic was washed down with another shot and we realised that Divok was just a nice guy, interested in us (as he had never met either an Australian or Dane) and wanted to show us a good night in Moscow, oh and the girls weren’t hookers, it was his girlfriend and his sister. We drank with him for a substantial amount of time and had more vodka then I care to remember, and when we decided to call it a night, we asked him how much we owed him for our share of the bill, and his reply “nothing, you paid for it with your company. I have a lot of money and I had a lot of fun, so you not pay me, your money is no good here” so we hugged it out said our goodbyes, scraped Ben (one of the other guys in the group) off the ground and got into a cab home, feeling already worse for wear. So jumped into bed around 430-5am and fell asleep instantly, unlike Tom who apparently got naked in his room, did some sort of dance around the room and then took a pee on someones bag and fell asleep, and had no recollection of it the next morning.

So Russia is now over, which is sad but at the same time exciting as tomorrow I will be in Beijing, a city I expect to be the polar opposite of Russia.  Russia has been amazing. After hearing horror stories of people getting mugged, police pulling them up and wanting bribes, border crossing nightmares, getting ripped off and all the kind of jazz, I was half expecting at least something bad to happen, but it didn’t. I felt just as safe as any other city I have been to. If anyone is considering going to Russia, do it. Don’t be put off by these stories, the cities are amazing, the people are lovely (although knowing a little Russian definitely helped) and it is just an amazing place! I love Russia!

Things learnt in Moscow, Russia:
• Russians still believe heavily in chivalry. Girls expect doors to be opened for  
   them, be allowed in first to places, chairs pulled out etc.
• Moscow was not always the capital of Russia, it was, then it was moved to St
   Petersburg and then back to Moscow in 1918.
• The metro is not the easiest to navigate
• Moscow has more billionaires living in its streets than any other city on earth


Ferris Wheel

Love locks (when people get married they write the name and date
on a lock and lock it to these tree like sculptures on a bridge

A more crowded lot of locks

Matryoshka dolls at Izmaylovo Markets

Jimmy and the hat man at Izmaylovo Markets

Matryoshka doll

Russian character at Izmaylovo Flea Market

Old cameras at Izmaylovo Market (was hard not to buy any)

Street meat at Izmaylovo Markets

Guard at the Kremlin who looked 16

Russian babe

Russian stud

The boys in Red Square

Me in Red Square

Jimmy's amazing tan mark

Cathedral of Christ the Saviour

Car with Kremlin in the background

Historical Museum in Red Square

St Basils Cathedral 

One of Moscow's metro stations

The calm before the storm

High rolling

Jimmy and Ryan and our train

Moscow sunset

Just cruising

St Basils Cathedral 

St Basils Cathedral